Newsletter No.18: The Science of Kung-Fu Style Tea Brewing

In this newsletter, I would like to explain the ultimate tea brewing technique, which keeps the flavor of tea fresh over multiple infusions. I will share some scientific approaches to brewing tea. In general, the higher the quality of the tea leaf, the more delicate it becomes. As far as I am concerned, fresh tea leaves and fresh vegetables are the same. Please imagine fresh lettuce in a salad: it gives a very fresh green aroma. However, what would happen if the fresh lettuce were placed in boiling water for a while? The lettuce would be instantly cooked, and it would no longer give a fresh flavor.

We must minimize the heat damage to the tea leaf during brewing

This is a very important point in brewing tea. If I put my finger in boiling water for a few seconds, my finger may be seriously damaged. If I put it in for a minute, my finger will be "perfectly" burned. However, what if I insert my finger and remove it immediately, within 0.01 second? I assume that my finger would not be hurt. The same logic can be applied to brewing tea. We need to extract the flavor of the tea leaf efficiently, but we do not want to cook the leaf. If the tea leaf is soaked in hot water for a long time, it will be cooked just like a boiled vegetable. This also robs the tea of its aromatics and renders the fragrance flat and dull. Besides, the antioxidants inside the tea leaf will be oxidized and destroyed.

So what is the ideal brewing technique?

I increase the ratio of tea leaf to the volume of water used for brewing. For example, the classic method says to brew 3g of leaf in 300ml of water for 1 minute. I can get the same extraction efficiency if I follow the ratios of tea leaf to water and the brewing times below:

A. 3g / 300ml = 1 minute
B. 3g / 100ml = 20 seconds
C. 6g / 100ml = 10 seconds
D. 6g / 50ml = 5 seconds

The fundamental approach of Kung-Fu tea brewing

Surprisingly, even if I make tea according to method D, I can enjoy the same intensity of flavor as with method A. This is a scientific approach. However, this method did not originate with me. The same theory was developed long ago in Chaozhou, China, and it is known as the Kung-Fu tea brewing technique. Chaozhou is the hometown of Phoenix Dan Cong oolong. Phoenix Dan Cong oolong is one of the most intricate and complex teas to manufacture. This tea is made with a highly developed process that is labor-intensive and challenging for tea masters. As a reward, the tea gives an unimaginably strong fruity or flowery flavor reminiscent of apricot, mango, peach, honey, marigolds or orchids.

Traditionally, people in Chaozhou did not want to spoil the freshness of this tea. They wished to enjoy this strikingly flavorful tea over as many infusions as they could. The Kung-Fu tea brewing technique was developed to achieve very short infusions, so as not to cook (oxidize) the tea leaf and to maintain its freshness over many brewings. Once we learn this very short infusion technique, the flavor of the tea stays the same even after repeated brewing. The fresh flavor that we enjoyed in the first brewing can remain for more than 6 brewings. Since the ratio of tea to water is very high, we can brew many times, usually more than 10 times.

It is important to cool down the tea leaf before each subsequent brewing

There is one important tip. After every brewing, remove the lid from the teapot and let the leaf cool down before the next brewing. Usually I use a pitcher to combine the first to third brewings to get an even concentration before serving. From the second brewing onwards, I practice a "touch and go" brewing style, which means the tea is infused for less than a second.

Kung-Fu brewing also enhances the function of tea

Generally, green tea contains a lot of antioxidants, which are more sensitive to heat than those in other kinds of tea. Even if I practice this technique, the tea leaf may be cooked by the heat remaining from the previous brewing. Under these circumstances, it is necessary to cool the hot water down to about 80 degrees Celsius, and it is important to brew as briefly as possible. In addition, it is good to use a flat-shaped teapot so that the tea leaves can spread widely and release the heat more efficiently. If your technique is good, green tea and even green oolong tea can remain a very fresh green color even after up to 10 brewings.

Brewing with a Hohin in the Kung-Fu style

The following video shows the short infusion technique using a Hohin. A Hohin has the same function as a gaiwan, but its design is handier. I can pour out the tea instantly without any worry of burning my fingers, which I used to experience when I had just started to use a traditional gaiwan.

For more about choosing a teapot, please see How to Select a Teapot and Tea Cup. You can find our handmade teapots in our teaware collection.