What Is Wuyi Rock Tea?

Wuyi Yan Cha (Wuyi Rock Tea) is one of the three major Chinese oolong teas. Along with Pu-erh Tea and Phoenix Oolong Tea, it is also one of the Chinese teas that often captivate tea enthusiasts.

The tea gardens of Wuyi Yan Cha are located among the rocky mountains of Wuyishan City, Fujian Province, China, an area designated as a World Heritage site. This area is known as the Scenic Area, where a village called Tianxin once existed. Before the World Heritage designation, villagers lived there, but after the designation, they relocated to the opposite bank of the Jiuqu Xi (九曲溪). Even today, the tea gardens remain in the Scenic Area, and the tea harvested there is called Zheng Yan Cha (正岩茶).

Location and Access to Wuyishan

Wuyishan is a rocky mountain located in Wuyishan City, Fujian Province, about one hour inland by high-speed rail from Fuzhou, the provincial capital. These rocky mountains are protected as Wuyishan National Park and are registered as a World Heritage site. The landscape is composed of massive rocky mountains, reminiscent of scenes where the Monkey King might appear. It is a very popular scenic spot in China and is often featured on television in Japan, including on NHK. For this reason, even people unfamiliar with tea may have heard the name Wuyishan. This recognition has greatly influenced the demand and price of Wuyi Yan Cha.

Wuyishan City is a tea-producing mountainous area located about 200 km inland from the sea. Alongside Wuyishan flows the Jiuqu Xi, which continues downstream to Fuzhou. In the past, the river was the main route for transportation, so tea from Wuyishan was supplied downstream to Fuzhou and other coastal areas. Thanks to this efficient waterway logistics, Wuyishan tea has been well known in urban areas since ancient times, creating historically high demand.

What is Wuyi Yan Cha?

The characteristics of Wuyi Yan Cha can be summarized in the following two points:

• Body derived from rock-based minerals
• Rich flavor from charcoal roasting

Body Derived from the Rocks of Wuyi Mountain

The most distinctive feature of tea from Wuyi Mountain is its exceptionally full and expansive body. In Chinese, this quality is called “口感 (kou gan),” referring to the richness and spread of flavour that fill the mouth when drinking. When tasting Wuyi Yan Cha, the flavour spreads in the mouth like an unfolding firework, a bold sensation that fascinates many people.

This distinctive character comes from the rocks of Wuyi Mountain, which is why the Oolong teas produced there are called “Wuyi Yan Cha (武夷岩茶).” At first glance, the rocks appear to be granite, but they are actually conglomerate. Long ago, sand and gravel settled in rivers, lakes and similar settings and hardened into rock, which uplift and river erosion later exposed. [1][2] These rocks contain abundant minerals such as calcium and potassium. The sand and gravel contain feldspar and fragments of granite, among other things, and a cement containing calcium carbonate binds the grains. [3][4] So when the rock weathers, it releases alkaline minerals like calcium, potassium and sodium. In the Jiuqu Xi, which runs through Wuyi Mountain, calcium is the most common dissolved mineral, followed by sodium and potassium. Most of these minerals are reported to come from weathered rock. [5] In our experiments, water or tea takes on more body the instant it touches Wuyi stones. Shells, lime and coral, which are also mostly calcium carbonate, add body to water simply by touching it. To take a familiar example, shellfish dishes taste completely different with the shell on and with it off. Our experiments have shown that, besides calcium, potassium, sodium and other minerals add body. The rock of Wuyi Mountain that is rich in alkaline minerals is called Zheng Yan, and tea grown in the soil formed as it weathers has a full body and flavor found nowhere else.

In addition, teas produced not within the Wuyi scenic area but in the surrounding regions are sometimes called “Ban Yan Cha (半岩茶),” meaning “semi-rock tea.” Once we compare the strength of body, teas from the surrounding areas can be easily distinguished. Even when processed in the same way, they cannot match the “Zheng Yan Cha,” the Authentic Wuyi Yan Cha, in terms of body.

Thick and Matured Flavour from Charcoal Roasting

Another distinctive feature of Wuyi Yan Cha is its thick and matured flavour developed through charcoal roasting. Charcoal fire emits not only far-infrared rays but also a continuous spectrum of visible light, near-infrared, mid-infrared, and far-infrared radiation. This wide-band emission gives the tea a clear and transparent flavour, like the refreshing sky on a fine autumn day.

The purpose of charcoal roasting is not to burn the tea, but to enhance its character or bring out new qualities by slowly roasting it at the optimal temperature over time. Likewise, “heavy roasting” does not mean roasting deeply but rather repeating the roasting process several times.

Tea develops its own distinctive flavour depending on its growing environment and cultivar. The first time I experienced the mao-cha, the unroasted Wuyi Yan Cha, I was strongly impressed by its rich tropical fruit and floral fragrance. Because the mao-cha already had such an exceptional flavour, I even felt that simply applying light heat to remove miscellaneous notes would be sufficient. Nevertheless, if we are to roast it intensively, the roasting must further enhance its character; otherwise, it would be wasteful and meaningless.

In reality, however, some producers roast at excessively high temperatures and burn the tea. This not only fails to enhance its character but also damages it.

Even among Wuyi Yan Cha, the roasting method varies significantly from one producer to another, so the choice of producer is extremely important. We select producers based on the belief that roasting should serve to “enhance the individuality of flavour” or “bring out new character.”

Terms “Yan Gu Hua Xiang” and “Yan Yun” That Describe Wuyi Yan Cha

When describing Wuyi Yan Cha, two expressions are often used: “岩骨花香 (Yan Gu Hua Xiang)” and “岩韻 (Yan Yun).”

“Yan Gu” literally means the structure derived from the rocks. The term “structure” refers to the framework and solidity of the flavour. “Hua Xiang” means floral fragrance, which originates from the floral flavour that well-roasted teas develop. Therefore, “Yan Gu Hua Xiang” refers to tea that possesses a firm structure with a floral fragrance.

The distinctive structure of Wuyi Yan Cha is largely influenced by alkaline minerals such as calcium and potassium contained in the rocks of Wuyi Mountain. These minerals enrich the body and strengthen the full-bodied character known as “Yan Gu.”

On the other hand, the interpretation of “Yan Yun” varies slightly. The word “Yun” refers to lingering flavour or the aftertaste that remains in the mouth and throat. However, since the influence of the Wuyi rocks mainly manifests in the tea’s structure, some argue that associating it with “Yun” is conceptually inconsistent.

Nevertheless, it is also true that trace minerals contained in the rocks of Wuyi Mountain, particularly iron, contribute to the strength of the lingering flavour. In fact, the different compositions of rocks in each area subtly affect the aftertaste. For this reason, the expression “Yan Yun” cannot be considered entirely misplaced.

In short, the influence of the rocks has two major aspects. They shape the structure of the tea through the alkaline minerals, while iron affects the lingering flavor.

Various Forms of So-called “Producers”

When visiting Wuyishan City, one would be overwhelmed by the sight of thousands of tea shops lined up along the streets. Moreover, in cities such as Fuzhou, Xiamen, Guangzhou, and Shanghai, there are also many shops specializing in Wuyi Yan Cha. What is noteworthy is that many of them claim to be “producers.” Most assert that they own factories or tea gardens in Wuyishan. In reality, however, many of them rely on contract factories, contract tea gardens, or commissioned production. In fact, there are several types of so-called “producers” in Wuyishan.

1. Former Tianxin Village Resident, Fully Integrated Production: Owns tea gardens within the Wuyishan Scenic Area and personally handles every stage of production, from tea processing to charcoal baking.
2. Former Tianxin Village Resident, Partially Outsourced: Owns tea gardens within the Wuyishan Scenic Area but outsources tea processing or charcoal baking to other producers.
3. Fresh Leaf Purchasing Type (Own Factory): Purchases fresh tea leaves and performs both tea processing and charcoal baking at their own factory.
4. Fresh Leaf Purchasing Type (Contract Factory): Purchases fresh tea leaves and rents a contract factory for processing and charcoal baking.
5. Fresh Leaf Purchasing Type (Partially Outsourced): Purchases fresh tea leaves, performs tea processing at their own factory, but outsources charcoal baking to other producers.
6. Mao-cha Purchasing Type (Own Charcoal Baking): Purchases already processed mao-cha (raw tea material) and performs charcoal baking themselves.
7. Mao-cha Purchasing Type (Commissioned Charcoal Baking): Purchases already processed mao-cha (raw tea material) and outsources charcoal baking to other producers.
8. Finished Product Purchasing Type: Purchases tea already charcoal-baked and packaged, then displays their own signboard at a local partner’s factory to give the impression that they have a production base there.

Of course, there is nothing inherently wrong with using contract factories, tea gardens, or commissioned production. Even teas produced in rented local factories under such arrangements can be of excellent quality. However, compared to those who own their own tea gardens, the production cost tends to be higher due to raw material procurement.

For this reason, we believe that sourcing teas from producers who own their tea gardens and carry out every step from tea processing to charcoal baking is crucial in order to maintain lower procurement costs and ensure consistent quality.

We have visited Wuyishan multiple times and have interacted with various producers. After careful evaluation, we currently source our teas from two tea artisans.

A Renowned Producer from Former Tianxin Village

This producer, originally from the central area of the Wuyishan Scenic Zone known as former Tianxin Village, owns multiple tea gardens within the scenic area and works both as a tea farmer and a producer. He is a well-known figure in the village, having once won first place in the largest Tianxin tea competition in Wuyishan.

A Natural Cultivation Enthusiast

This producer places great importance on the lingering impression of teas cultivated without fertilizers. His teas are exceptionally rare in Wuyishan and have a remarkably long-lasting finish. The teas are managed in accordance with European pesticide standards.

The Quality of Wuyi Yan Cha Determined by Its Lingering Finish (Hui Gan)

The strength of the body is one of the defining characteristics of Wuyi Yan Cha, but its quality cannot be judged by the intensity of the body alone. As a Zheng Yan Cha (meaning “authentic rock tea” grown within the Wuyishan core scenic area), having a full body is essential. However, the overall quality of the tea is defined by the lingering finish, also referred to as aftertaste or depth, all describing the same sensory impression expressed in Chinese as Hui Gan (回甘, meaning “returning sweetness”).

In both pricing and tea competitions, the length of the lingering finish is highly valued. Generally, teas with a longer lingering finish tend to be priced higher.

The following are several factors believed to influence the lingering finish of tea.

Fertilizer

The less nitrogen fertilizer used, the longer the lingering finish tends to be. However, as the price of Wuyi Yan Cha continues to rise, many farmers seek to increase production by using fertilizers, making teas with a long lingering finish increasingly rare in recent years.

Altitude

Higher altitudes create a greater temperature difference between day and night, which contributes to producing teas with a longer lingering finish.

Tea Gardens Near Rivers

Tea gardens located near rivers experience a significant drop in temperature at night due to humidity from the river, resulting in large differences between day and night temperatures that help enhance the lingering finish. In addition, since rivers flow through valleys, the soil in such areas tends to accumulate weathered rock minerals from upstream, which can also contribute to the quality of the tea.

Age of the Tea Trees

In general, the older the tea trees, the longer the lingering finish becomes. In Wuyishan, the oldest trees are of the Shui Xian (水仙, meaning “narcissus”) cultivar, some of which are over one hundred years old.

Cultivar

The difference in cultivar not only affects flavor but can also determine the length of the lingering finish even under identical growing conditions. For instance, Shui Xian (“narcissus”) tends to produce a longer lingering finish compared to other cultivars when grown under the same conditions. For this reason, Shui Xian is always a popular tea among many local producers.

Shaded Tea Gardens

When tea is cultivated under the same conditions in both sunlight and shade, the tea grown in shaded areas tends to have a longer lingering finish. However, shaded tea often lacks a vivid fragrance, which is why in other tea regions, gardens with better sunlight are preferred. In the case of Wuyi Yan Cha, since the tea undergoes strong roasting, even shaded teas develop sufficiently strong flavor. Consequently, in Wuyishan, shaded teas are often valued more highly.

Type and Characteristics of Rocks

The rocks surrounding the tea gardens and the mineral composition of the soil significantly influence the quality of the tea. In Wuyishan, the alkaline minerals within the rocks are often discussed in relation to their effect on the tea’s body, but in some cases, rocks rich in iron content are believed to enhance the length of the lingering finish.

History of Black Tea and Oolong Tea in Wuyishan

Oolong tea has not always been made in Wuyishan. In fact, until around 1600, the teas produced there were closer to green tea or yellow tea. In the 1600s, the early days of fermented tea, oolong techniques are thought to have been brought to Wuyishan from Anxi together with tea masters. For this reason, some people in Wuyishan still speak Minnan, the dialect of the Anxi region. Black tea is also thought to have been developed in the 1600s, at almost the same time as oolong tea.

Types of Wuyi Oolong Tea: Shui Xian, Rou Gui, Da Hong Pao, and Others

Wuyi Oolong tea includes many different types, which can be confusing at first. Based on experience, I classify Wuyi Oolong into the following five categories.

Seed-grown Tea (Jisshou Cha)

In Wuyishan, teas are broadly divided into seed-grown tea and clone cultivar tea. Seed-grown tea is propagated from seeds, allowing the roots to grow deep into the ground and absorb abundant minerals, which results in a rich and lasting finish. Clone cultivar tea, on the other hand, is propagated from cuttings, meaning all plants share identical genetic traits. Just as grape cultivars such as Kyoho or Muscat are propagated through cuttings or grafting, tea cultivars are similarly cloned, each with its own distinctive flavor characteristics.

Oolong tea production in Wuyishan began in the 1600s, but before that, green tea was the main type produced, and all teas were grown from seeds. Among the representative seed-grown teas of Wuyishan are the legendary six tea trees that naturally grow on Tianxin Rock, some of which are said to be over 360 years old.

Compared with cuttings, seed-grown trees develop deeper and broader root systems, enabling them to take up a wider range of nutrients and moisture from the soil. As a result, greater diversity in leaf composition arises, which is believed to be one of the factors that contributes to complex flavor characteristics.

Because seed-grown tea trees grow from seeds, they are not clones with identical genetic material to the parent plant. Each tree possesses its own unique genetic makeup, leading to differences in leaf shape, sprouting patterns, disease resistance, and even in chemical composition and flavor. For this reason, each seed-grown tea tree produces leaves with distinct individuality.

In Wuyishan, such seed-grown tea trees are referred to as Qi Zhong (奇種, meaning “unique variety”) and are clearly distinguished from cultivar-based or cutting-propagated tea trees.

Shui Xian

During the Qing Dynasty, cutting techniques were developed to preserve tea cultivars. The first cultivar introduced to Wuyishan through this method was Shui Xian. Historical records indicate that Shui Xian was brought into Wuyishan from another region during the Qing period, and some of the oldest trees today are more than one hundred years old. When grown under the same environmental conditions, Shui Xian tends to produce a longer lingering finish (Hui Gan) than other cultivars, and as a result, it is one of the most favored teas among local producers.

Rou Gui

Rou Gui (meaning “cinnamon”) was developed about fifty to sixty years ago through selection and refinement from seed-grown tea trees within Wuyishan. The name Rou Gui refers to cassia, or Chinese cinnamon, as this cultivar exhibits a cassia-like flavor when roasted. Rou Gui is highly popular due to its long lingering finish and appealing flavor.

Ming Cong

Ming Cong (meaning “famous bush”) refers to the traditional cultivars that have existed in Wuyishan for centuries. The four most renowned types of Wuyi Ming Cong are as follows:

• Ban Tian Yao (半天妖)
• Tie Luo Han (鐵羅漢)
• Bai Ji Guan (白雞冠)
• Shui Jin Gui (水金龜)

However, Ming Cong teas are extremely difficult to cultivate and are therefore very rare. Unlike the modern cultivars developed in recent decades, these traditional cultivars require highly skilled processing techniques to bring out their elegant flavor. As a result, their production volume has declined despite their historical fame. In particular, Bai Ji Guan is exceptionally rare, and many producers nowadays tend to sell other cultivars that have been strongly roasted under the name of Bai Ji Guan.

Other Cultivars

There are several hundred other cultivars found in Wuyishan. These cultivars vary widely in origin, including those that originated from Wuyishan’s own tea trees, those introduced from other regions, and those developed at tea institutes. Many of these cultivars produce teas with highly distinctive flavor characteristics, and in general, their prices are lower compared with Shui Xian and Rou Gui.

However, among them are some extremely rare cultivars that command very high prices. For example, Xian Nv San Hua (仙女散花, meaning “fairy scattering flowers”) is a lesser-known cultivar, yet among the teas I have encountered, it stood out for its remarkable quality and was priced at an exceptionally high level.

What Is Da Hong Pao?

When people think of Wuyi Oolong tea, Da Hong Pao (meaning “big red robe”) is often the first that comes to mind. Da Hong Pao is so famous that it has become synonymous with Wuyi Yan Cha, and many people firmly believe that it represents the pinnacle quality of Wuyi teas. However, the real Da Hong Pao is quite different from the image that most people have.

The name Da Hong Pao originates from a legend. During the Qing Dynasty, it is said that the emperor’s mother fell seriously ill, and despite every possible treatment, she did not recover. One day, the emperor brought back some tea from the rocky mountains of Wuyishan, and when his mother inhaled its fragrance, she recovered almost instantly. Overjoyed, the emperor expressed his gratitude by sending red robes to the tea trees. Since then, the tea has also come to symbolize honor and recognition, as Da Hong Pao was historically given as a reward to people of great achievement or exceptional contribution.

In Chinese, “Hong Pao” means “red robe” or “red garment.” Therefore, Da Hong Pao literally means “great red robe.”

There are various versions of this legend, but they all share the same symbolic element of the “red robe.”

According to the legend, six tea trees grew on the rock associated with this story. These trees were all seed-grown, meaning they originated from seeds and were genetically distinct from one another. As a result, each of the six trees had different characteristics, and their teas were not of a single, uniform flavor.

So, what kind of tea is actually sold as Da Hong Pao in Wuyishan today? Interpretations differ among producers, but in general, Da Hong Pao in Wuyishan City is classified into the following three categories.

Original Mother Trees of Da Hong Pao

This term refers to the six original mother trees growing on a cliff within Jiulong Ke (九龙窠) in the Wuyishan Scenic Area. These are known as the “Mother Trees of Da Hong Pao.” Since 2006, plucking from these trees has been strictly prohibited to protect them. The last harvest, made in 2005, was officially stored in a museum in October 2007. Therefore, true Mother Tree Da Hong Pao no longer exists today.

Pure-line Da Hong Pao (純種大紅袍, Chun Zhong Da Hong Pao): Cultivars Propagated from the Original Mother Trees

Pure-line Da Hong Pao refers to clone cultivars propagated from any of the six original Mother Trees of Da Hong Pao in Wuyishan, and to the teas produced from these clones. Pure-line Da Hong Pao is reproduced asexually, usually through cuttings, and is therefore genetically identical to the mother trees. For this reason, Pure-line Da Hong Pao is considered to faithfully inherit the characteristics of the original trees.

For a long time, Pure-line Da Hong Pao was believed to consist of three cultivars: Qi Dan (奇丹), Bei Dou (北斗), and Que She (雀舌). However, recent genetic testing has revealed that Bei Dou has no genetic relationship with the six original Da Hong Pao mother trees. It has therefore been confirmed that Bei Dou belongs to an entirely different genetic lineage unrelated to the six mother trees.

We often notice that in the tea market, names such as “Second-generation Da Hong Pao” and “Third-generation Da Hong Pao” are frequently used, but from a scientific perspective, these terms are incorrect. Because Da Hong Pao is propagated asexually through methods such as cuttings, the concept of generations does not apply.

Terms like “second generation” or “third generation” are appropriate only for plants propagated from seeds. In the case of asexual propagation, the genetic material is identical to that of the mother trees, so there is no generational difference.

Therefore, when the terms “Second-generation” or “Third-generation Da Hong Pao” are used, they should be understood as synonymous with Pure-line Da Hong Pao. These expressions are misleading and carry no special meaning. The belief that “Second-generation Da Hong Pao” possesses different quality or characteristics from other supposed generations has no scientific basis and is entirely unfounded.

It is important to understand that tea quality is not determined solely by cultivar or DNA, but is also closely related to the cultivation environment, the use or absence of fertilizers, and the age of the tea trees. Even if new trees are propagated from the original Da Hong Pao mother trees through cuttings or seeds, differences in tree age, growing conditions, and environment result in significant variation in quality. Therefore, teas produced from cloning techniques or derived from the mother trees should simply be regarded as one type of cultivar, not as something inherently superior.

Commercial Da Hong Pao: A Name Referring to Blended Tea

Most Da Hong Pao available on the market today is a blend of several teas. In tea competitions held in Wuyishan, Da Hong Pao is officially defined as a blended tea (拼配茶), and each producer participates using their own unique blend.

This is, in fact, the most common definition of Da Hong Pao in Wuyishan City. Nearly all teas sold under the name Da Hong Pao are blended teas. Being a blend does not mean inferior quality. In many cases, blending creates a balanced combination of finish, strength, and flavor that cannot be achieved with a single cultivar. Among Da Hong Pao teas, there are some of exceptional character and quality, while some are inexpensive and of poor quality. The market is therefore highly mixed in terms of value.

There are no specific restrictions or official standards governing Da Hong Pao blending. Although one may occasionally hear that a Da Hong Pao blend should “include Pure-line Da Hong Pao” or “resemble the flavor of the original Mother Trees,” in practice there are no such strict rules. Even award-winning teas in official competitions are freely blended according to each producer’s preference.

Subdivided Production Areas of Wuyi Yan Cha

Wuyi Yan Cha is not only classified by cultivar but also by its finely subdivided production areas, each of which is marketed as an independent “brand.” These include Zheng Yan (正岩), Ban Yan (半岩), Zhou Cha (洲茶), and Wai Shan (外山), as well as smaller regions such as San Keng Er Jian (三坑二涧), Jiu Long Ke, Ma Tou Yan (马头岩), Fo Guo Yan (佛国岩), Gui Dong (鬼洞), and Lian Hua Feng (莲花峰). Each site is said to impart its own distinctive characteristics to the tea. The terms Keng (坑), Jian (涧), Yan (岩), Ke (窠), and Dong (洞) refer to specific types of landforms, and understanding their meanings helps to visualize the unique terrain of each tea origin.

Keng

Keng refers mainly to hollows or depressions formed in mountains and valleys. These places sit lower than their surroundings, and many are valleys or gorges enclosed by mountains and rocks. A Keng may cover a relatively wide area, and because hours of sunlight are limited, the tea develops a distinctive character.

• Niu Lan Keng (牛欄坑)
  Located in the middle of the three main east-west Keng and Jian north of the Jiuqu Xi (Nine-Bend Stream), it is only about 2 km long and is known as one of the "three Keng and two Jian".
  Characteristics: Much of the area is planted with Rou Gui, and some Shui Xian remains. The famous "Niu Rou" refers to Rou Gui from Niu Lan Keng, and it has become very popular on the market in recent years.
• Hui Yuan Keng (慧苑坑)
  The northernmost of the three main east-west Keng and Jian north of the Jiuqu Xi, and the largest of the "three Keng and two Jian." It also has the oldest history of tea cultivation in Wuyishan.
  Characteristics: Many spots recommended by long-time enthusiasts, such as Gui Dong, Gu Jing and Zhu Ke, are scattered here. Historically, Hui Yuan Keng had more than 800 Ming Cong, and it is also called "Ming Cong Da Guan Yuan" (the Garden of Famous Bushes).
• Da Keng Kou (大坑口)
  The southernmost of the three main east-west Keng and Jian north of the Jiuqu Xi. It is a deep gorge leading to Tianxin Rock, running east to west and linking the water systems of Tianxin Rock and the Chongyang Xi.
  Characteristics: Tea gardens spread along both sides of the gorge, and because it faces east and west, it receives plenty of sunlight. The path to the Da Hong Pao mother trees runs along Da Keng Kou, and Jiu Long Ke is its best-known small growing area.

Jian

The term Jian refers to a narrow mountain valley formed by a small river or stream flowing through the mountains. Jian valleys are characterized by constant water flow and very high humidity. Tea gardens located along a Jian benefit from abundant moisture, resulting in tea leaves of distinctive individuality and complex character. The high humidity also causes mist to rise from the river at night, rapidly cooling the surrounding air. This creates a large temperature difference between day and night, which slows tea growth and contributes to the production of uniquely expressive teas.

• Wu Yuan Jian (悟源涧)
  Located at the southern foot of Ma Tou Yan.
  Characteristics: The water from the Jian flows into the ponds and irrigation channels of Lantang Village at the mountain’s base and eventually joins the Jiuqu Stream. The Jian valley remains cool in summer and protected from cold winds in winter. The Danxia landform and weathered sandstone in this area create globally renowned tea-growing conditions.
• Liu Xiang Jian (流香涧)
  This Jian runs vertically across three large Keng valleys, one of which is Dao Shui Keng.
  Characteristics: The name “Liu Xiang Jian” was given by the Ming Dynasty poet Xu Bo. It is also known as the original growing site of the famous Ming Cong cultivar Bu Zhi Chun (不知春, meaning “Unaware of Spring”).

Yan

In Wuyishan’s topography, Yan refers to steep cliffs or rocky walls. These rocky formations, with their unique geological structures, strongly influence the surrounding environment. The soil created by the weathering of rocks affects the tea’s growth conditions. As expressed in the phrase “Thirty-six Peaks and Ninety-nine Rocks” (三十六峰 九十九岩, pronounced *San Shi Liu Feng, Jiu Shi Jiu Yan*, meaning “Thirty-six Peaks and Ninety-nine Rocks”), rocks play a central role in shaping the terrain and scenery of Wuyishan.

• Ma Tou Yan
  Located east of Da Wang Feng, south of Tian You Feng, west of San Yang Feng, and north of the Da Hong Pao Scenic Zone (Jiu Long Ke).
  Characteristics: Ma Tou Yan consists of five large stones aligned in a way that resembles galloping horses, creating a spectacular sight. In recent years, it has gained attention in the market and is often mentioned alongside Niu Lan Keng’s Rou Gui tea. Teas from both areas are sometimes referred to collectively as “Ma Rou” (馬肉).
• Bi Shi Yan (碧石岩)
  Located in the northwestern part of the Wuyishan Scenic Area.
  Characteristics: The name Bi Shi Yan means “Green Rock Cliff,” where “Bi” (碧) refers to a deep bluish-green hue similar to jadeite. The area is known for its old Shui Xian trees, with many mature high-grown Shui Xian trees preserved here.
• Mi Tuo Yan (弥陀岩)
  Located in the northern part of the Wuyishan Scenic Area.
  Characteristics: Mi Tuo Yan is shaped like a monk’s hat, and at the base lies the Mi Tuo Temple. Together with Fo Guo Yan, it was once known as a major export site for Da Zong Shui Xian tea.

Ke

The term Ke refers to a specific small area surrounded by mountains or valleys, often forming a natural basin. These locations are shielded from strong winds and direct sunlight by the surrounding terrain, which keeps humidity high and creates a distinctive microclimate. In such an environment, tea plants receive limited sunlight and experience minimal temperature fluctuation, allowing them to grow slowly and develop unique individuality.

The word Ke originally means “nest,” symbolizing a protected or enclosed place—just as birds or animals build their nests in safe surroundings. In Wuyishan, this name evokes the sense of a small, sheltered area nestled within mountains where tea thrives under natural protection.

• Jiu Long Ke
  Located within the Da Hong Pao Scenic Area.
  Characteristics: This deep valley connects to Tianxin Rock, and the surrounding mountains resemble nine dragons in motion, hence the name Jiu Long Ke, meaning “Nine Dragons’ Nest.” The six original Mother Trees of Da Hong Pao are also located within this area.
• Zhu Ke (竹窠)
  Located between Hui Yuan Keng and San Yang Feng.
  Characteristics: With elevations ranging from 290 to 500 meters, the area is lush and covered with bamboo and other vegetation. The old Shui Xian trees in Zhu Ke are regarded as among the finest in all of Wuyi Shui Xian production.

Dong

Dong refers to natural caves or hollows formed between mountains and rocks through long-term erosion by water and wind. These areas are characterized by high humidity and limited sunlight, which significantly affect the growth of tea plants. Tea grown in such environments develops slowly and tends to show distinctive individuality due to the cooler, stable conditions inside these formations.

Tea gardens situated in Dong areas receive very little direct sunlight, as they are surrounded by rocky walls and steep slopes. Consequently, photosynthesis is limited, slowing the plants’ growth. Because the sunlight cannot sufficiently warm the ground, the temperature remains low inside the Dong throughout the day. These factors together lead to slow-growing tea trees that develop under unique environmental stress.

• Gui Dong (meaning “Ghost Cave”)
  Location: Situated between Dao Shui Keng, Huo Yan Feng, Hui Yuan Keng, and Ying Zui Yan.
  Characteristics: This is a secluded canyon extending upward from northwest to southeast, divided into Inner Gui Dong and Outer Gui Dong. It is one of the most primitive and biodiverse tea-growing areas in Wuyishan, where sexually propagated (seed-grown) tea groups still dominate.

Altitudes of Representative Growing Areas

The growing area of Wuyi Yan Cha is the Wuyishan Scenic Area, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Because of the image of steep mountains, many people assume the tea gardens lie at high altitude, but they actually spread across relatively low-lying areas.

Because it is called rock tea, people tend to imagine tea bushes growing between the rocks. More precisely, the tea trees grow in soil formed from weathered rock. The sandy soil of the tea gardens is made up of minerals similar to those of the surrounding rocks, so it is, quite literally, rock tea.

The altitude of rock tea areas is surprisingly low; the famous areas lie at around 200-400 m. Only one area, Wu San Di (吴三地), sits at around 800 m. Below are the altitudes of representative Wuyi Yan Cha growing areas.

• Hui Yuan Keng
  Location: Northern foot of Yuzhu Peak, Huiyuan Temple
  Altitude: about 250 m
  Main cultivars: Tie Luo Han
• Niu Lan Keng
  Location: Northeast of Tianxin Temple, southern foot of Beidou Peak and Mantuo Peak
  Altitude: about 250 m
  Main cultivars: Rou Gui, Shui Jin Gui
• Liu Xiang Jian
  Location: Western foot of Yuzhu Peak and Feilai Peak, next to Hui Yuan Keng
  Altitude: about 300 m
  Main cultivars: Shui Xian
• Da Keng Kou
  Location: Southeast of Tianxin Temple
  Altitude: about 250 m
  Main cultivars: Shui Xian, Rou Gui, Ming Cong
• Zhu Ke
  Location: West of Liu Xiang Jian
  Altitude: about 300-500 m
  Main cultivars: Shui Xian
• Ma Zhen Feng (馬枕峰), the birthplace of Rou Gui
  Location: Southwest of Shizi Peak
  Altitude: about 350 m
  Main cultivars: Rou Gui
• Gui Dong
  Location: Between Tianxin Temple and Huiyuan Temple
  Altitude: about 300 m
  Main cultivars: Shui Xian, Tie Luo Han, Shui Jin Gui
• Wu San Di
  Location: Northwest of the Wuyishan Scenic Area, high-mountain area
  Altitude: about 800 m
  Main cultivars: Shui Xian, Qi Lan, Dan Gui
• Wu Yuan Jian
  Location: Southern foot of Ma Tou Yan, within the Wuyishan Scenic Area
  Altitude: about 350 m
  Main cultivars: Shui Xian
• Jiu Long Ke
  Location: Within the Da Hong Pao scenic spot
  Altitude: about 350 m

Processing and Storage of Wuyi Oolong Tea

Wuyi oolong tea is made in a way very similar to Phoenix Dan Cong oolong from Chaozhou. First, the leaves are thoroughly fermented and finished as a heavily fermented oolong. Rather than young leaves, leaves that have matured and grown to some extent are plucked. Because the leaves are tossed vigorously during fermentation, it is also called "Lang Qing Oolong" (浪青烏龍).

The tea is then roasted over charcoal. This matures the oolong and gives it a richer, fruitier flavor.

Although I wrote above that the process resembles that of Phoenix Dan Cong, Phoenix Dan Cong is charcoal roasted slowly at relatively low temperatures to bring out its floral and fruity aromas. Because its tea trees are old and its gardens are at high altitude, the raw leaf is of very high quality, which allows low-temperature roasting. This keeps the fresh aroma of the tea.

Wuyi oolong, on the other hand, has a heavy body thanks to the minerals in the rocks, but its tea trees are generally young and its gardens lie at only a few hundred meters. If it were finished in the same way as Phoenix Dan Cong, it would turn astringent and its character could not be brought out. For this reason, it is generally roasted at higher temperatures. As a result, the tea has a toasty aroma, which has become the typical style of Wuyi oolong. Because the roasting temperature is high, the tea is best rested for a while rather than drunk right after production; it is ready to drink about one year after processing, once the roasted aroma has settled.

In the region, the tea is stored exposed to air, so it deteriorates during storage, losing its aroma or turning sour. For this reason, tea in China is roasted again at regular intervals, and it becomes more and more toasty with each roasting.

HOJO, by contrast, recommends oxygen-free storage. We have carried out storage experiments for many years, and Wuyi oolong stored without oxygen does not lose its freshness and ages in a very desirable way.

Tea Brewing Method for Wuyi Yan Cha

There are three representative brewing methods for Wuyi Yan Cha: the local method practiced by Wuyishan residents, the Gongfu style, and a simplified method for everyday brewing.

Local Brewing Method

From my observation of many local tea producers in Wuyishan, their brewing approach differs slightly from that of other oolong-producing regions.

Because the tea leaves are not preheated, the water temperature drops quickly, typically reaching around 60–70°C during brewing. However, for Yan Cha grown in lower-altitude tea gardens, this lower temperature helps to suppress harshness while drawing out a complex expression. For this reason, this brewing style is commonly preferred among tea drinkers in Wuyishan.

Gongfu Brewing Method

There are various theories regarding the origin of the Gongfu brewing method, but it is generally believed to have developed in Chaozhou as part of the pursuit of the best way to brew oolong tea. The essence of this method lies in maintaining the highest possible water temperature throughout the session to enhance the tea’s clarity and to bring out its true quality. It is a method designed to directly reveal the intrinsic character of high-grade tea.

However, because this method vividly expresses both the strengths and weaknesses of a tea, it is most suitable for high-quality leaves.

Simple Brewing Method

This is an easy method using a large teapot, around 300 ml in size. The larger the teapot, the more slowly the water cools, allowing surprisingly stable results even without advanced techniques.

Although preheating in step 3 can be skipped, doing so produces a cleaner expression and stronger flavour overall.

For the main oolong regions and their characteristics, see What Is Oolong Tea?

References

[1] Ding Y, Jiang S X, Tang J R, Wang X L (2025). First discovery of trace fossils in the red beds of the Cretaceous Chong'an Formation in Wuyishan National Park. National Park, 3(10): 649-656. DOI: 10.20152/j.np.202506300049

[2] IUCN (2010). World Heritage Nomination - IUCN Technical Evaluation: China Danxia (China), ID No. 1335. https://whc.unesco.org/archive/advisory_body_evaluation/1335.pdf

[3] He A, Zhu Z, Zhao Q (2024). Cretaceous paleoclimate evolution of Yong'an Basin in western Fujian and its response to geomorphic changes along the coast of South China. Marine Geology Frontiers, 40(12): 50-63. DOI: 10.16028/j.1009-2722.2023.220

[4] Li B, Zhou Y, Dong Z G, Zhuang Y L, He L H, Luo Q, Hu B W (2025). Phanerozoic tectonic sequence stratigraphy and sedimentary model in Yong'an Basin, Fujian Province. Chinese Journal of Geology, 60(1): 107-124. DOI: 10.12017/dzkx.2025.008

[5] Ye H M, Gan J, Li G P, et al. (2022). Temporal and Spatial Distributions and Controlling Factors of Hydrochemistry at Wuyishan National Park Water Body. Fujian Journal of Agricultural Sciences, 37(10): 1362-1370. DOI: 10.19303/j.issn.1008-0384.2022.010.016