The Legendary Deep Fermented Dong Ding Oolong That Dominated Taiwan in the 1980s
HOJO’s Dong Ding Oolong is one of our most popular products, alongside Jasmine Pearl. However, Taiwanese tea professionals unanimously state that the production method of today’s Dong Ding Oolong is entirely different from that of 30 years ago.
As a trend, modern Dong Ding Oolong is made with extremely light fermentation, resulting in vibrant green leaves, a pale yellow liquor, and a fresh, floral flavour similar to Sencha.
In reality, this light fermentation style is not unique to Dong Ding Oolong but is also common among Alishan, Lishan, and most other high mountain teas.
As a result, lower elevation tea is often considered inferior to that grown at higher elevations.
Many tea enthusiasts now pursue tea exclusively from high altitude gardens, leading to a market trend where only elevation determines quality.
However, those who have experienced the highest Taiwanese teas often find themselves with nowhere to go next.
This trend is gradually homogenizing the character of Taiwanese tea, reducing the variety of experiences available to tea drinkers in the long run.
To counteract this, HOJO has decided to introduce Taiwanese teas made using different processing methods from various mountains, rather than focusing solely on elevation based quality differences.
The first of these efforts is this traditional Dong Ding Oolong.
Did You Know Dong Ding Oolong Was Once a Phenomenon in Taiwan?
In the early 2000s, Dong Ding Oolong tea experienced a massive boom among Taiwanese tea lovers.
However, the Dong Ding Oolong that captivated people at the time was fermented much more deeply than modern versions.
Unlike the floral notes of today’s lightly fermented teas, traditional Dong Ding Oolong was known for its rich and matured flavour, often compared to ripe fruits.
Based on our experience, tea enthusiasts tend to be drawn to oolong teas with higher fermentation levels. In this regard, well fermented Dong Ding Oolong was particularly satisfying for seasoned tea drinkers.
Deep fermentation is not simply about extending fermentation time. In oolong tea production, flavour formation occurs through the withering process. This process does not rely on fermentation by polyphenol oxidase (PPO) but rather on the hydrolysis of monoterpene glycosides, such as geraniol glycoside and linalool glycoside. This enzymatic reaction releases free terpenes, which contribute to the tea’s flavour profile.
The tea leaves are tossed into the air and rubbed against a bamboo sieve upon landing, promoting fermentation. This process requires significant time and physical effort, yet it does not necessarily lead to higher selling prices, making it an unpopular method among producers.
Older tea masters who know the traditional technique often avoid it due to the physical demands, while younger tea makers lack the necessary experience.
Even lightly fermented oolong teas require a 24 hour process, so a traditional deep fermented oolong takes even more time and effort, making it an undesirable tea to produce.
However, there are still tea masters in Taiwan who recognize the importance of traditional deep fermented oolong.
This particular tea was crafted by a tea master with the philosophy that oolong tea lovers will eventually seek out deep fermented teas.
The Rich Color and Aroma of Traditional Dong Ding Oolong
The appearance of deep fermented oolong is distinct from regular oolong teas.
Most modern lightly fermented Dong Ding Oolong teas have a yellowish green liquor, whereas traditional Dong Ding Oolong has a golden to amber hue, similar to roasted oolong.
However, despite its color, no roasting is applied.
The deeply fermented process results in a uniquely satisfying mouthfeel. It offers a thick, lingering sweetness that coats the tongue.
The flavour leans more towards ripe fruits than flowers, with an initial note of chestnuts that gradually evolves into a lingering fruity aftertaste.
The unique soil of Dong Ding Mountain is reflected in the taste. A 2003 study at National Taiwan University by Yue-Ming Chen found that tea garden soil in Lugu, home of Dong Ding Mountain, holds more calcium and other alkaline minerals (exchangeable bases) than tea garden soil in lower-lying Yangmei. The tea garden soil in Lugu is rich in these alkaline minerals. We believe they are the reason for the tea's broad flavor, very bold taste and strong body. The clear difference in taste from the surrounding growing areas probably also comes from this soil.
Additionally, deep fermented oolong has excellent aging potential. Due to its higher fermentation level, it is more resistant to oxidation and remains stable even after opening.
References
Chen, Y.M. (2003) 在不同海拔高度下三種茶樹品種之根圈及本體土壤物理化學特性. Master's thesis, Graduate Institute of Agricultural Chemistry, National Taiwan University (advisor: Wang, M.K.)
Chen, Y.M., Wang, M.K., Zhuang, S.Y., Chiang, P.N. (2006) Chemical and physical properties of rhizosphere and bulk soils of three tea plants cultivated in Ultisols. Geoderma. doi:10.1016/j.geoderma.2006.04.003
