Managing Yunnan White Tea — Insights from the Field | HOJO Online Speciality Tea Shop

Since March 25, we have been in Yunnan Province, fully engaged in the production of white tea. In this column, we share insights into the realities of white tea production in Yunnan — from quality and sourcing to the way we manage the process.

Why We Produce White Tea in Yunnan

When people think of white tea, what often comes to mind is tea from Fujian Province in China. In fact, we too used to source our white tea from Fujian. Today, however, we produce exclusively in Yunnan — a choice driven by the exceptional quality of tea leaves available there.

Because the production process of white tea is simple, the quality of the fresh tea leaves directly determines the final flavor and character. In Yunnan, ancient tea trees — some several hundred years old — grow slowly at high elevations, without fertilizers or artificial intervention. These leaves have a higher cell density, allowing them to retain more minerals, which contributes to a depth and richness that cannot be replicated elsewhere.

Direct Involvement to Realize Ideal White Tea

While Yunnan has a tea history of over 2,000 years, there has never been a standardized method for white tea production. In many cases, tea that is simply dried may still be classified as white tea. Due to literacy issues and local customs, proper production control is lacking. As a result, it is nearly impossible to find high-quality, ready-made white tea here.

In Yunnan, inconsistent quality is common. Without proper withering, oxidation progresses too far, resulting in over-fermented tea with brownish color. Since 2016, we have been producing white tea in Yunnan, adapting Fujian’s processing methods to the local climate and raw materials. By staying on-site before the season starts and managing every step ourselves, we ensure consistency and quality from beginning to end.

The finished white tea exhibits a rare, vivid green color and clear floral character — a profile hardly seen in Yunnan. For those who are found of finishing and after-notes, this tea may feel truly one-of-a-kind.

The Critical Role of Timing in White Tea Production

White tea production is simple: fresh leaves → withering → drying. Since there is no rolling step, fine downy hairs remain on the surface, giving white tea its name.

However, the withering process is highly sensitive. High humidity slows down withering, turning stems brown. As the season warms up, stems thicken and become prone to over-fermentation — making it unsuitable for white tea. Therefore, we aim to complete all white tea production by April 15.

At this point, the most of white tea has been processed. We are currently focused on producing high-mountain and single-tree white teas. We’re relieved to have secured the needed volume of white tea for the year.

The Science Behind Withering

White tea is technically a fermented tea (through enzymatic conversion), yet its leaves remain green. This is because the type of fermentation process in white tea differs from the enzymatic oxidation that typically takes place in black tea.

Rather than relying on polyphenol oxidase (PPO) like black tea, the withering process in white tea activates hydrolytic enzymes, which release floral aroma compounds. Since PPO remains inactive, the leaves retain their green hue.

As the leaves dehydrate during withering, their cell membranes are damaged, allowing enzymes to interact with their substrates. Hydrolytic enzymes, such as β-primeverosidase, become active and break down glycoside-bound aroma precursors, releasing compounds like geraniol and linalool. These reactions are responsible for the tea’s distinctive floral aroma.

In contrast, in black tea fermentation, PPO oxidizes catechins and other polyphenols, producing a reddish-brown color and a characteristic fermented aroma, often reminiscent of dried fruits. This forms the tea’s middle note. The key difference is that withering enhances the floral top notes, while the fermentation process develops richer, oxidized middle notes.

For optimal withering, it’s crucial to activate hydrolytic enzymes without triggering PPO. If PPO becomes active, the tea darkens and develops off-flavors due to the formation of thearubigins — resulting in undesirable white tea.

Racing Against Time to Preserve Freshness

Once tea production is complete, oxidation gradually progresses. The sooner we can ship the tea to Japan and Malaysia, the fresher it will remain. To accelerate the process, we handle all the packaging ourselves. If we left it to the producers during the busy season, shipping would likely be delayed by a month or more—long enough for oxidation to noticeably affect the quality.

We seal the tea in aluminum-laminate bags (1kg each) using heat-sealers to prevent condensation during air shipping. White tea is voluminous and packing it requires both time and energy. The tiny hairs on the leaves stick to our bodies, causing itching and eye irritation — this is the most physically demanding part of our Yunnan work.

This week, we finally completed the packaging and shipping of our major white tea batches. It’s a relief.

The Aroma of White Tea Evolves Over Time

Freshly made white tea is already appealing, but when aged in oxygen-free conditions for about a year, its aroma becomes even more pronounced. After three years or more, it can develop fruity notes reminiscent of natural wine.

The Ancient White Tea (Gushu white tea) we currently offer was produced last year, and its aroma has grown noticeably more expressive since its release. We recommend enjoying it as a cold brew—or even as a sparkling infusion using a soda machine.

It’s important to note that “loss of freshness” and “aging” are two entirely different phenomena. Freshness declines through exposure to oxygen, not simply with time. By sealing the tea in oxygen-free packaging immediately after processing, we can preserve its freshness indefinitely. While the aroma may evolve with aging, the tea itself remains just as fresh.